Second Periodical Exam

Second Grading Period in Home Economics II
Basic Clothing
SY 2008-2009

I. Identification
II. Word Analogy
III. Matching Type
IV Measurement Chart
V. Enumeration
VI. Sequencing
VII. Essay

Coverage of Exam
1. Sewing Machine parts and functions
2. Sewing Machine trouble, causes and remedies
3. Taking body measurements
4. Measurement chart
5. Parts of Project plan
6. Unit Method of Clothing Construction


Note: Please be particular with the unit and method of clothing construction.


Have a great weekend

God bless you DALTON!

Rico, C. J.

STEP SKILLS: Fertilizer Computation

'O8 STEP SKILLS
Fertilizer Computation

Venue: V.Mapa High School
Time: September 30, 2008 at 9am



Going to V. Mapa High School

Contestants: Marichu Cuevas IV -Copernicus
Bryan Keiffer Mara II- Dalton


During the Contest .....

Judges : Mr. Blen Durante
Mathematician
Math Dept. Head of V. Mapa

Mechanics of the Contest










Brian Keiffer Mara No. 12 Contestant


Start : 9:00 am to 10:00 am

Bryan finished his computation at exact 9: 37 am

At the moment he's transferring his calculation to his final paper...grabe ...ang tagal ni Bryan ...








October 2, 2008 T. Paez Integrated School at 3;30 pm
Champion of Fertilizer Computation: Brian Keiffer Mara of Manila Science High School

Videos: Constructing Basic Short Pants

Fabric Overedging
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWVYHGgP58g

Sewing Dart
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3QWgnszQ7M

Attaching Patch Pocket
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYHXgYZLndk

Attaching the Zipper Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhLye8munk0

Attaching the Zipper Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nMTKf1lz5U

Tips in Sewing a Perfect Pocket

Perfect Pockets By Ann Price Gosch

Pockets can beautifully accent a professional-looking garment or they can blatantly expose poor construction. A few simple guidelines will ensure successful results.

Figure 1

Generally, the pocket is cut on the same grainline as the garment (lengthwise), but for design interest, especially with stripes or plaids, the pocket grainline can be on the crosswise or bias grain. Interfacing can help prevent the pocket from stretching out of shape. Pockets made from crisp, firmly woven fabrics are least likely to need interfacing, though some pocket fabric colors require the additional opacity an interfacing or lining can provide. Depending on the fabric, pocket shape, placement and use, interface the finished pocket only or include interfacing in the hem and/or seam allowances as well. Cut the interfacing with the stable grainline parallel to the opening edge. When a pocket is lined, the lining fabric automatically shapes the pocket when it's turned right side out. Unlined pockets, however, especially curved ones, require extra help. That's where a cardboard template the size and shape of the finished pocket comes in handy. Simply slip it under the unlined pocket's finished hem allowance and press the seam allowances around it. On curved pockets: Wrong side up, machine baste 1/4" (6.5mm) from the curved raw edge. Draw up the bobbin thread and adjust the gathering to ease the seam allowances smoothly around the template. Or from the right side, zigzag over a cord 1/4" (6.5mm) from the raw edge. Pull the cord from both ends to draw up the curved edges, easing the pocket around the template. Press from the wrong side over the cardboard (Figure 1); remove the template and press again from the right side.

On square or chevron pockets, you can press accurately without a template if you machine stitch around the pocket just inside the seamline. Then fold the seam allowances to the wrong side, rolling the stitched line so you can barely see it at the folded edge. Press the lower edge first; then press the sides. To determine pocket placement on the garment, cut out pocket shapes in the sizes and fabrics desired. Test various locations, then pin the pockets in place. Try on the garment sections and evaluate the effect in a full-length mirror. Move the pockets around, if necessary, until you have the look you want. Without unpinning the pockets, mark the location for each one. If the pocket will endure a lot of strain, reinforce the entire pocket area by applying interfacing to the garment wrong side. If less reinforcement is required, apply an interfacing strip on the garment wrong side under the pocket hem area or simply apply 1" (2.5cm) interfacing squares under the pocket upper corners (Figure 2).

Figure 2

• Position the finished pockets on the garment. If the garment section is flat, pin the pockets in place on a table. If it's shaped, place the section over a pressing cushion or ham. Baste the pockets in place as needed with hand stitching, glue stick or transfer web strips. To edgestitch pockets on casual garments, begin and end with backstitches. Use a zipper foot or edgestitch foot for better visibility and smoother stitching.

Sewing Tips for Sewing Darts

What are Darts?

What are Darts?

Darts are garment construction features used to shape fabric to the curves of the body. Darts can be straight, for an easy fit, or curved for a closer-to-the body fit. Darts are typically found in the bust, waist and hip areas, where the body is the most contoured.

How do I make a straight dart?

These bust darts are straight for an easy fit. Make them as follows:
To make darts, with the RIGHT sides of the fabric together, fold the fabric through the center of the dart, bringing broken lines and small dots together. Stitch the dart from wide end to points.

A double pointed straight dart is made exactly like a single straight dart, except that you start at the center of the dart and stitch to the tip. Repeat this procedure for both ends of the dart, overlapping a few stitches in the center when starting the second section. Clip the dart at its widest part. This clip will allow the dart to spread a bit and lie flat.

Tip - To prevent a “bubble” at the point, make the last few stitches right on the fold and leave the thread ends long enough to tie a knot. DO NOT back-stitch at the point as this can cause wrinkling or pulling.

What about curved darts?

Curved darts are handled very much like straight darts. They are also stitched from the widest part to the tip. When a curved dart is completely within the dress (that is, it does not start at the cut edge), it has to be sewn in two steps, just as you do for a double pointed straight dart. Because the dart is curved, you need to mark the entire stitching line (broken line) and any dots.

With RIGHT SIDES together fold the fabric through the center of the dart, bringing broken lines and small dots together, on the INSIDE. Place pins at RIGHT angles to the broken lines. Starting at the widest part, which will be at or near the center of the dart, stitch towards the tip, making the last few stitches right on the fold. Follow the TIP given above for straight darts.

To make the second half of the dart, start at the center, overlapping a few stitches on top of the first stitching and stitch towards the other tip end of the dart. Finish off as for the first end of the dart. Clip the dart at the widest part so that it will lie flat.

What is a “dart seam”?

A dart seam is a dart that actually forms a part of the pattern contour. When the raw edges of the dart are brought together, they form a seam. In fact, this type of dart functions like a seam in the garment, hence the name dart seam. Opening the center section makes the dart easier to sew and gives a smoother line and less bulk once the dart is sewn Follow the same marking and stitching procedures as for the straight and curved darts.

How do I press darts?

As a rule, darts are first pressed flat, then open or to one side as indicated in the pattern instructions. Normally, vertical darts are pressed towards the center and horizontal darts are pressed downward. Occasionally, your instructions will tell you to slash the dart along the foldline and press open. This is done to give a smoother appearance.

For more sewing tips, see Simplicity's Simply the Best Sewing Book.

When Things Go Wrong - Trouble-Shooting Tips

Sewing Techniques

When Things Go Wrong - Trouble-Shooting Tips

We can all heave a huge sigh of relief because, it’s quite true, nobody is perfect! Things do go wrong, even for those of us who have sewn for many years, so Wendy Gardiner has provided a list of a few of the most common stitch problems and hopefully, some helpful solutions!

Troubled stitching

Unfortunately, there are a whole host of reasons why stitching may not be satisfactory, from wrong needle, stitch length, width or tension to fluff, incorrect threading and even old threads! Here are a few of the common dilemmas and solutions:

HANDY HINT: Always make sure the presser foot is raised and the needle is in highest position when threading the sewing machine. Failure to do so can mean the thread doesn’t go through the tension discs properly.

Skipped or broken stitching

Skipped stitches may be caused because the thread isn’t feeding evenly and thus creates varying stitch lengths. Broken stitching can be caused by thread breaking, incorrect stitch length for fabric type or badly performing needles. Try the following remedies:

1. Check that the machine is threaded properly and that the thread travels through the tension discs smoothly (make sure presser foot is raised when checking).

2. Clean out bobbin race to ensure there is no fluff catching in the mechanism.

3. Ensure the thread is coming off the reel the right way (from underneath the reel or up and over, depending on how the users manual advises) and that the reel is held in place with a thread retainer. Otherwise the thread reel bounces up and down the spindle as you stitch, which can cause uneven stitching, skipped stitching or even broken threads.

4. Make sure the needle is inserted the right way round and is fully inserted into the holder. Tighten needle with screwdriver.

5. Try a new needle. A blunt needle, or one with a tiny burr in the eye (invisible to the naked eye) can shred or break the thread as it travels through at speed.

6. Use a smaller size needle. Too large or heavyweight a needle can cause skipped stitches on lightweight fabric.

7. Use a zigzag stitch on stretch fabric, or fabric cut on the bias which has more stretch.

8. Another reason for thread breakage is a needle with too small an eye for the thread or stitching. Try a larger eyed needle (embroidery and jeans needles tend to have larger eyes) or when using metallic threads, use a metalfil needle which has a coated eye.

Bobbin thread visible on top

1. Rethread both bobbin and top thread before making any machine adjustments. Sometimes it is simply a threading problem.

2. Having checked threading, check the stitch length/width is suitable for fabric type. Use small stitches for lightweight fabric and longer stitching for heavier weight fabric.

3. If bobbin thread is still visible, alter needle tension, very slightly, a little at a time until the stitches are forming properly – with top thread visible on the top and bobbin thread visible on the underside.

Top thread clearly visible on underside

1. Again rethread both bobbin and top threads again, just in case they are incorrectly threaded.

2. Check stitch length and if applicable width, is suitable for the fabric weight and number of layers.

3. Alter tension, as above, turning dial to right to tighten it and to left to loosen it.

HANDY HINT: It is rarely necessary to alter tensions on modern machines and a small alteration to tighten or loosen the tension goes a long way so adjust very slowly, a little at a time.

Troublesome needles

Problems can occur when the needle isn’t inserted properly, when using a blunt or damaged needle or the wrong type of needle.

Needles break

1. Check that it is going down through the throat plate and not hitting the side or indeed the side of the foot. Do this by turning the balance wheel by hand (turning towards you). This may happen if using the wrong presser foot for the stitch selected or because the needle is bent out of shape.

2. Check that the needle is properly inserted (usually this is flat to the back, but check users manual) and that it is fully inserted. Tighten the retaining screw by hand initially and then finish tightening with the screw driver supplied in the tool kit. Note, failure to tighten the screw sufficiently can result in the screw working itself loose as the machine stitches, which in turn will allow the needle to wobble or drop.

3. Is it the right type of needle for the fabric and layers being stitched? If it breaks when stitching heavy fabric, try a heavier needle. For instance, use a denim needle when sewing heavyweight fabrics, denim and thick fleece.

4. Is the upper thread getting caught up around the thread spindle, pulling it tight? Remove the thread, and rethread, ensuring that a retainer is put on the spindle to hold the reel in place.

5. If stitching very dense designs, or stitching over another part of a design, the needle may break because it cannot penetrate the concentrated stitching. Use a sharp new needle and lighter weight thread, such as machine embroidery thread.

Needle is sticky and sticking

This can be caused by craft glues, fusible interfacings etc. Clean the needle with a cleaning agent or alcohol and wipe thoroughly before re-inserting it.

Needle leave holes

1. An old blunt needle will leave holes. Change needles every project or after every six hours of stitching.

2. If working with lightweight fabrics, make sure the needle is the right size. Use a size 9(65) for very fine net, georgette, lace and cotton lawn and size 11 (75) for silks, gingham, fine poplins and taffetas.

Avoiding problems

1. Clean out the bobbin race regularly. After every sewing session, or more frequently if stitching fabrics that fray and fluff a lot (such as fleece or fur fabrics). Fluff in the works can prevent the bobbin working properly, prevent the needle thread linking up with the bobbin thread and more.

2. Change needles regularly. If you are unsure what type of needle is in the machine, replace it.

HANDY HINT: Colour code any needles you can re-use (such as embroidery, jeans or twin needles you’ve only used for a small project). That way you will easily see which type of needle it is.

3. Avoid using cheap threads – they will break easily. Also throw away any old threads that have been saved in grandmother’s box of haby for years. They may have weakened over time.

4. Make sure the presser foot is raised and needle in the highest position when threading the machine as this releases tension discs and enables threads to slip through them easily.

5. When changing stitch pattern or presser foot, take one stitch by turning the balance wheel by hand to ensure the needle goes through the foot and throat plate without hitting either of them. If it does, check the right foot is being used and that the needle is not bent.

6. Try out stitching on scraps of the same layers of fabric, interfacings, waddings etc.

Sewing machine problems

Lubricating – most modern machines are self-lubricating and thus do not need oiling. However check with the users' manual and oil as indicated if required. Do get your machine serviced regularly – even if it is self-lubricating, it needs an overhaul occasionally!

Tips for Taking Body Measurements

FREE DAILY FITNESS TIP

By Jennifer Gruenemay, ACE-Certified, LifeScript Staff Writer

Saturday, July 28, 2007

Taking your measurements before you start a weight loss plan is a good idea. Not only will it cement the fact that you’re starting a journey toward a healthier you, it’ll also give you a good idea of where exactly you’re starting out. Unfortunately, taking measurements and comparing them to your progress later on down the line isn’t always an accurate science. Will you measure your thighs at exactly the same place as the first time, or will you accidentally measure yourself an inch lower on your leg where your thighs are slimmer naturally and fool yourself into thinking you’ve lost more weight than you really have? While you can take personal notes during the first measurement to remind you where exactly you’re taking the first measurement, learning how to take body measurements with these tips will help even more:

• Keep the length of the measuring tape perfectly parallel to the floor at all times.
• Pull the tape snug, but not so tight that it squeezes your body.
• Measurements taken around the neck, buttocks, thighs, calves, biceps, and forearm should be taken around the largest circumference.
• Waist measurement should be taken around the smallest circumference.
• Stand with your feet together when taking hip, buttock and thigh measurements, and never flex or tense your body while you’re taking measurements.
• Don’t suck in your stomach to take waist measurements, or you’ll just get a false measurement.

And above all, relax! Let it all hang loose, because the more honest you are with your first set of measurement, the higher magnitude of change you’ll see when you start to lose weight. And there’s nothing more motivating than progress!