Sewing Techniques
When Things Go Wrong - Trouble-Shooting Tips
We can all heave a huge sigh of relief because, it’s quite true, nobody is perfect! Things do go wrong, even for those of us who have sewn for many years, so Wendy Gardiner has provided a list of a few of the most common stitch problems and hopefully, some helpful solutions!
Troubled stitching
Unfortunately, there are a whole host of reasons why stitching may not be satisfactory, from wrong needle, stitch length, width or tension to fluff, incorrect threading and even old threads! Here are a few of the common dilemmas and solutions:
HANDY HINT: Always make sure the presser foot is raised and the needle is in highest position when threading the sewing machine. Failure to do so can mean the thread doesn’t go through the tension discs properly.
Skipped or broken stitching
Skipped stitches may be caused because the thread isn’t feeding evenly and thus creates varying stitch lengths. Broken stitching can be caused by thread breaking, incorrect stitch length for fabric type or badly performing needles. Try the following remedies:
1. Check that the machine is threaded properly and that the thread travels through the tension discs smoothly (make sure presser foot is raised when checking).
2. Clean out bobbin race to ensure there is no fluff catching in the mechanism.
3. Ensure the thread is coming off the reel the right way (from underneath the reel or up and over, depending on how the users manual advises) and that the reel is held in place with a thread retainer. Otherwise the thread reel bounces up and down the spindle as you stitch, which can cause uneven stitching, skipped stitching or even broken threads.
4. Make sure the needle is inserted the right way round and is fully inserted into the holder. Tighten needle with screwdriver.
5. Try a new needle. A blunt needle, or one with a tiny burr in the eye (invisible to the naked eye) can shred or break the thread as it travels through at speed.
6. Use a smaller size needle. Too large or heavyweight a needle can cause skipped stitches on lightweight fabric.
7. Use a zigzag stitch on stretch fabric, or fabric cut on the bias which has more stretch.
8. Another reason for thread breakage is a needle with too small an eye for the thread or stitching. Try a larger eyed needle (embroidery and jeans needles tend to have larger eyes) or when using metallic threads, use a metalfil needle which has a coated eye.
Bobbin thread visible on top
1. Rethread both bobbin and top thread before making any machine adjustments. Sometimes it is simply a threading problem.
2. Having checked threading, check the stitch length/width is suitable for fabric type. Use small stitches for lightweight fabric and longer stitching for heavier weight fabric.
3. If bobbin thread is still visible, alter needle tension, very slightly, a little at a time until the stitches are forming properly – with top thread visible on the top and bobbin thread visible on the underside.
Top thread clearly visible on underside
1. Again rethread both bobbin and top threads again, just in case they are incorrectly threaded.
2. Check stitch length and if applicable width, is suitable for the fabric weight and number of layers.
3. Alter tension, as above, turning dial to right to tighten it and to left to loosen it.
HANDY HINT: It is rarely necessary to alter tensions on modern machines and a small alteration to tighten or loosen the tension goes a long way so adjust very slowly, a little at a time.
Troublesome needles
Problems can occur when the needle isn’t inserted properly, when using a blunt or damaged needle or the wrong type of needle.
Needles break
1. Check that it is going down through the throat plate and not hitting the side or indeed the side of the foot. Do this by turning the balance wheel by hand (turning towards you). This may happen if using the wrong presser foot for the stitch selected or because the needle is bent out of shape.
2. Check that the needle is properly inserted (usually this is flat to the back, but check users manual) and that it is fully inserted. Tighten the retaining screw by hand initially and then finish tightening with the screw driver supplied in the tool kit. Note, failure to tighten the screw sufficiently can result in the screw working itself loose as the machine stitches, which in turn will allow the needle to wobble or drop.
3. Is it the right type of needle for the fabric and layers being stitched? If it breaks when stitching heavy fabric, try a heavier needle. For instance, use a denim needle when sewing heavyweight fabrics, denim and thick fleece.
5. If stitching very dense designs, or stitching over another part of a design, the needle may break because it cannot penetrate the concentrated stitching. Use a sharp new needle and lighter weight thread, such as machine embroidery thread.
Needle is sticky and sticking
This can be caused by craft glues, fusible interfacings etc. Clean the needle with a cleaning agent or alcohol and wipe thoroughly before re-inserting it.
Needle leave holes
1. An old blunt needle will leave holes. Change needles every project or after every six hours of stitching.
2. If working with lightweight fabrics, make sure the needle is the right size. Use a size 9(65) for very fine net, georgette, lace and cotton lawn and size 11 (75) for silks, gingham, fine poplins and taffetas.
Avoiding problems
1. Clean out the bobbin race regularly. After every sewing session, or more frequently if stitching fabrics that fray and fluff a lot (such as fleece or fur fabrics). Fluff in the works can prevent the bobbin working properly, prevent the needle thread linking up with the bobbin thread and more.
2. Change needles regularly. If you are unsure what type of needle is in the machine, replace it.
HANDY HINT: Colour code any needles you can re-use (such as embroidery, jeans or twin needles you’ve only used for a small project). That way you will easily see which type of needle it is.
3. Avoid using cheap threads – they will break easily. Also throw away any old threads that have been saved in grandmother’s box of haby for years. They may have weakened over time.
4. Make sure the presser foot is raised and needle in the highest position when threading the machine as this releases tension discs and enables threads to slip through them easily.
5. When changing stitch pattern or presser foot, take one stitch by turning the balance wheel by hand to ensure the needle goes through the foot and throat plate without hitting either of them. If it does, check the right foot is being used and that the needle is not bent.
6. Try out stitching on scraps of the same layers of fabric, interfacings, waddings etc.
Sewing machine problems
Lubricating – most modern machines are self-lubricating and thus do not need oiling. However check with the users' manual and oil as indicated if required. Do get your machine serviced regularly – even if it is self-lubricating, it needs an overhaul occasionally!
