Second Periodical Exam

Second Grading Period in Home Economics II
Basic Clothing
SY 2008-2009

I. Identification
II. Word Analogy
III. Matching Type
IV Measurement Chart
V. Enumeration
VI. Sequencing
VII. Essay

Coverage of Exam
1. Sewing Machine parts and functions
2. Sewing Machine trouble, causes and remedies
3. Taking body measurements
4. Measurement chart
5. Parts of Project plan
6. Unit Method of Clothing Construction


Note: Please be particular with the unit and method of clothing construction.


Have a great weekend

God bless you DALTON!

Rico, C. J.

STEP SKILLS: Fertilizer Computation

'O8 STEP SKILLS
Fertilizer Computation

Venue: V.Mapa High School
Time: September 30, 2008 at 9am



Going to V. Mapa High School

Contestants: Marichu Cuevas IV -Copernicus
Bryan Keiffer Mara II- Dalton


During the Contest .....

Judges : Mr. Blen Durante
Mathematician
Math Dept. Head of V. Mapa

Mechanics of the Contest










Brian Keiffer Mara No. 12 Contestant


Start : 9:00 am to 10:00 am

Bryan finished his computation at exact 9: 37 am

At the moment he's transferring his calculation to his final paper...grabe ...ang tagal ni Bryan ...








October 2, 2008 T. Paez Integrated School at 3;30 pm
Champion of Fertilizer Computation: Brian Keiffer Mara of Manila Science High School

Videos: Constructing Basic Short Pants

Fabric Overedging
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWVYHGgP58g

Sewing Dart
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3QWgnszQ7M

Attaching Patch Pocket
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYHXgYZLndk

Attaching the Zipper Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhLye8munk0

Attaching the Zipper Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nMTKf1lz5U

Tips in Sewing a Perfect Pocket

Perfect Pockets By Ann Price Gosch

Pockets can beautifully accent a professional-looking garment or they can blatantly expose poor construction. A few simple guidelines will ensure successful results.

Figure 1

Generally, the pocket is cut on the same grainline as the garment (lengthwise), but for design interest, especially with stripes or plaids, the pocket grainline can be on the crosswise or bias grain. Interfacing can help prevent the pocket from stretching out of shape. Pockets made from crisp, firmly woven fabrics are least likely to need interfacing, though some pocket fabric colors require the additional opacity an interfacing or lining can provide. Depending on the fabric, pocket shape, placement and use, interface the finished pocket only or include interfacing in the hem and/or seam allowances as well. Cut the interfacing with the stable grainline parallel to the opening edge. When a pocket is lined, the lining fabric automatically shapes the pocket when it's turned right side out. Unlined pockets, however, especially curved ones, require extra help. That's where a cardboard template the size and shape of the finished pocket comes in handy. Simply slip it under the unlined pocket's finished hem allowance and press the seam allowances around it. On curved pockets: Wrong side up, machine baste 1/4" (6.5mm) from the curved raw edge. Draw up the bobbin thread and adjust the gathering to ease the seam allowances smoothly around the template. Or from the right side, zigzag over a cord 1/4" (6.5mm) from the raw edge. Pull the cord from both ends to draw up the curved edges, easing the pocket around the template. Press from the wrong side over the cardboard (Figure 1); remove the template and press again from the right side.

On square or chevron pockets, you can press accurately without a template if you machine stitch around the pocket just inside the seamline. Then fold the seam allowances to the wrong side, rolling the stitched line so you can barely see it at the folded edge. Press the lower edge first; then press the sides. To determine pocket placement on the garment, cut out pocket shapes in the sizes and fabrics desired. Test various locations, then pin the pockets in place. Try on the garment sections and evaluate the effect in a full-length mirror. Move the pockets around, if necessary, until you have the look you want. Without unpinning the pockets, mark the location for each one. If the pocket will endure a lot of strain, reinforce the entire pocket area by applying interfacing to the garment wrong side. If less reinforcement is required, apply an interfacing strip on the garment wrong side under the pocket hem area or simply apply 1" (2.5cm) interfacing squares under the pocket upper corners (Figure 2).

Figure 2

• Position the finished pockets on the garment. If the garment section is flat, pin the pockets in place on a table. If it's shaped, place the section over a pressing cushion or ham. Baste the pockets in place as needed with hand stitching, glue stick or transfer web strips. To edgestitch pockets on casual garments, begin and end with backstitches. Use a zipper foot or edgestitch foot for better visibility and smoother stitching.

Sewing Tips for Sewing Darts

What are Darts?

What are Darts?

Darts are garment construction features used to shape fabric to the curves of the body. Darts can be straight, for an easy fit, or curved for a closer-to-the body fit. Darts are typically found in the bust, waist and hip areas, where the body is the most contoured.

How do I make a straight dart?

These bust darts are straight for an easy fit. Make them as follows:
To make darts, with the RIGHT sides of the fabric together, fold the fabric through the center of the dart, bringing broken lines and small dots together. Stitch the dart from wide end to points.

A double pointed straight dart is made exactly like a single straight dart, except that you start at the center of the dart and stitch to the tip. Repeat this procedure for both ends of the dart, overlapping a few stitches in the center when starting the second section. Clip the dart at its widest part. This clip will allow the dart to spread a bit and lie flat.

Tip - To prevent a “bubble” at the point, make the last few stitches right on the fold and leave the thread ends long enough to tie a knot. DO NOT back-stitch at the point as this can cause wrinkling or pulling.

What about curved darts?

Curved darts are handled very much like straight darts. They are also stitched from the widest part to the tip. When a curved dart is completely within the dress (that is, it does not start at the cut edge), it has to be sewn in two steps, just as you do for a double pointed straight dart. Because the dart is curved, you need to mark the entire stitching line (broken line) and any dots.

With RIGHT SIDES together fold the fabric through the center of the dart, bringing broken lines and small dots together, on the INSIDE. Place pins at RIGHT angles to the broken lines. Starting at the widest part, which will be at or near the center of the dart, stitch towards the tip, making the last few stitches right on the fold. Follow the TIP given above for straight darts.

To make the second half of the dart, start at the center, overlapping a few stitches on top of the first stitching and stitch towards the other tip end of the dart. Finish off as for the first end of the dart. Clip the dart at the widest part so that it will lie flat.

What is a “dart seam”?

A dart seam is a dart that actually forms a part of the pattern contour. When the raw edges of the dart are brought together, they form a seam. In fact, this type of dart functions like a seam in the garment, hence the name dart seam. Opening the center section makes the dart easier to sew and gives a smoother line and less bulk once the dart is sewn Follow the same marking and stitching procedures as for the straight and curved darts.

How do I press darts?

As a rule, darts are first pressed flat, then open or to one side as indicated in the pattern instructions. Normally, vertical darts are pressed towards the center and horizontal darts are pressed downward. Occasionally, your instructions will tell you to slash the dart along the foldline and press open. This is done to give a smoother appearance.

For more sewing tips, see Simplicity's Simply the Best Sewing Book.